Franklin.”
26–?28 October 1853 • Philadelphia, Pa.
(MS and transcript: NPV and Muscatine
Journal, 11 Nov 53, UCCL 00002)
[Philadelphia, Pa.] Oct. 26, 1853.
[My Dear Brother:
[I[t] ] was at least two weeks before I left New York, that I left received my last letter from home: and since then, devil take the word have I heard from any of you. And now, since I think of it, it wasn’t a letter, either, but the last number of the “Daily Journal,” saying that that paper was sold, and I very naturally supposed from that, that the family had disbanded, and taken up winter quarters in St Louis. Therefore, I have been writing to Pamela, till I’m tired of it, and have received no answer. I have been wanting for the last two or [ the three] weeks, to send Ma some money, but [ b devil] take me if I knew where she was, and so the money has slipped out of my pocket somehow or other, but I have a dollar left, and a good [ del deal] owing to me, which will be paid next [ m Monday].1 I shall enclose the dollar in this letter, and you can hand it to her. I know it’s a small amount, but then it will buy her a [hankerchief], and at the same time serve as a specimen of the kind of stuff we are paid with in Philadelphia. You see it’s against the law in Pennsylvania to keep or pass a bill of less denomination than $5. I have only seen two or three bank bills since I have been in the [State. On] Monday the hands are paid off in sparkling gold, fresh [of the] Mint; so your dreams are not troubled, with the fear of having doubtful money in your pocket.2
I am subbing at the Inquirer office.3 One man has engaged me to work for him every Sunday till the first of next April, [ will (when] I shall return home to take Ma to Ky;) [and] ] another has engaged my services for the 24th of next month; and if I want it, I can get subbing every night of the week. I go to work at 7 o’clock in the evening, and work till 3 o’clock the next morning. I can go to the theatre and stay till 12 o’clock, and then go to the office, and get work from that till 3 the next morning; when I go to bed, and sleep till 11 o’clock, then get up and loaf the rest of the day. The type is mostly agate and minion, with some bourgeois; and when one gets a good agate take, he is sure to make money.4 I made $2.50 last Sunday, and was laughed at by all the hands, the poorest of whom sets 11,000 on Sunday; and if I don’t set 10,000, at least, next Sunday, I’ll give them leave to laugh as much as [the[y] ] want to. Out of the 22 compositors in this office, 12 at least, set 15,000 on Sunday.
Unlike New York, I like this Phila amazingly, and the people in it. There is only one thing that gets my “dander” up—and that is the hands are always [ encouraging ] me: telling me [ n “it’s] no use to get discouraged—no use to be down-hearted, for there is more work here than you can do!” “Downhearted,” the devil! I have not had a particle of such a feeling since I left Hannibal, more than four months ago. I fancy they’ll have to wait some time till they see me downhearted or afraid of starving while I have strength to work and am in a city of 400,000 inhabitants. When I was in Hannibal; before I had scarcely stepped out of the town limits, nothing could have convinced me [than ] ] I would starve as soon as I got a little way from home.
The] grave of Franklin is in Christ [Church-yard], [cor.] of Fifth and Arch streets. They keep the gates locked, and one can only see the flat slab that lies over his remains and that of his wife; but you cannot see the inscription distinctly enough to read [ th it]. This inscription, I believe, reads thus:
“Benjamin
and
Deborah
I counted 27 [cannons (6 pounders)] planted in the edge of the [side walk ] ] [ on in] Water [st.] the other day. They are driven into the [ground,] about a foot, with the mouth end upwards. A ball is driven fast into the mouth of each, to exclude the [water; they] look like so many posts. They were put there during the war. I have also seen them planted in this [manner,] round the old [churches,] in [N.Y.]
The Exchange is [ we where] the different omnibus lines have their starting or stopping place. [That is ]it is the head-quarters; and from this they radiate to the different [parts. of ] ] the city.5 [Well], as I was going to say, I went to the Exchange, yesterday, and deposited myself in a Fairmount stage, paid my sixpence, or “fip,” as these [heathen ] call it, and started.6 We rolled along till we began to [get towards] the [out-skirts]] of the city, where the prettiest part of a large city [ always ] [is. We ] ]passed a [ h large ]house, which looked like a public [ p building]. It was built entirely of great blocks of red granite. The pillars in front were all finished but one. These pillars were [beautiful ]ornamented fluted columns, considerably larger than a hogshead at the [base, ]and [about as high as Caplinger’s second story front windows.] 7 No marble pillar is as pretty as [ this these ]sombre red granite ones; and then to see some of them finished and standing, [and then the ]huge blocks lying about of which [the other was ]to be built, it looks so [massy]; ]and carries one in [imagination, ]to the ruined piles of ancient Babylon. I despise [the infernal ]bogus brick columns, plastered over with mortar. [Marble ]is the cheapest [building stone ]about [Phila. ]This marble is the most beautiful I ever saw. [I[t] ] takes a very high polish. Some of it is as black as Egypt,8 with thin streaks of white running through it, and some is a beautiful snowy white; while the most of it is magnificent black, clouded with white.
But I must go on with my trip. We soon passed long rows of houses, (private [dwellings) ]all the work about the doors, [stoop], &c., of which, was composed of this pretty marble, glittering in the [sun, ] [ lie like ]glass. We arrived at [Fairmount,—got ]out of the [stage, ]and [ pe prepared ]to look around. The [hill, ](Fairmount) is very high, and on top of it is the [great ]reservoir. After leaving the stage, I passed up the [road, ]till I came to the wire bridge which stretches across the Schuylkill [(or Delaware, darned if I know which!—the former, I believe,—but you, know], for you are a better scholar than I am)]. This is the first bridge of the kind I ever saw.9 Here I saw, a little above, the fine [dam, ]which [hold[s] ] back the water for the use of the Water Works. It forms [ n quite ]a nice water-fall. Seeing a park at the foot of the hill, I [entered—and ] found it one of the nicest little places about. Fat marble Cupids, in big marble vases, squirted water [ every upward ]incessantly. Here [stands ]in a kind of mausoleum, [(is that proper?) ] [ ◇ a well ]executed ]piece of sculpture, with the inscription—“Erected by the City Council of Philadelphia, to the memory of Peter Graff, the founder and inventor of the Fairmount Water Works.” The bust looks toward the dam. It is all of the purest white marble. I passed along the pavement by the [pump-house ](I don’t know what else to call [it) ]and seeing a door left open by somebody, I went in. I saw immense [water-wheels] ], &c., but if you will get a [back-number ]of the Lady’s [ b Book], you will find a better description of the [Works, ]than I can [give you.] 10 I passed on further, and saw small [steamboats], with their signs up—“For Wissahickon and [Manayunk]—25 cts.” [Geo. ]Lippard, in his “Legends of Washington and his Generals,” has rendered the [ Wa Wissahickon ]] sacred [in ]my eyes, and I shall make that [trip,—as ]well as one to Germantown, soon.11
But to proceed, again. Here was a long flight of stairs, leading to the summit of the hill. I went [up—of ]course. But I forgot to say, that at the foot of this hill a pretty white marble Naiad stands on a projecting [rock, ]and this, I must [say ]is the prettiest fountain I have seen lately. A [nice ]half-inch jet of water is thrown straight up ten or twelve feet, and descends in a shower, all over the fair water spirit. Fountains also gush out of the rock at [ the her ]feet, in every direction.12 [Well, ]arrived at the top of the hill, I see nothing but a [respectable-sized ]lake, which [ [looks] ]rather out of place in its elevated [situat‸ion‸ ed ]. I can’t say I saw [ nothing ]else, [either:—for ]here I had a magnificent view of the city. Tired of this, I passed up Coates streets, [5 or six ]squares from the hill, and came to the immense ([distributin]) ]branch of the Works. It is built of a kind of dirty yellow stone, and in the style of an ancient feudal Castle. [Passing ]on, I took a squint at the [“House of Refuge,” ]([of which we used to read at ]Sunday [School),—then ] I took a look at the marble Girard College, with its long rows of marble pillars—then jumped into a [’bus, ] and posted back to the Exchange.13
[There is one fine custom observed in Phila. A gentleman is always expected to hand up a lady’s money for her. Yesterday, I sat in the front end of the ’bus, directly under the driver’s box—a lady sat opposite me. She handed me her money, which was right. But, Lord! a St. Louis lady would think herself ruined, if she should be so familiar with a stranger. In St. Louis, a man will stan sit, in the front end of the stage, and see a lady [ star stagger ]from the far end, to pay her fare. The Phila. ’bus drivers cannot cheat. In the front end of the stage is a thing like [and] ] office clock, with figures, from 0 to 40, marked on its face. When the stage starts, the [hands] ] of the clock [is ]turned toward the 0. When you get in and pay your fare, the driver strikes a bell, and the hand moves to the fig. 1—that is, “one fare, and paid for,” and there is [ re your ]receipt, as good as if you had it in your pocket. When a passenger pays his fare and the driver does not strike the bell immediately, ‸he‸ is greeted “Strike that [bell,! ]will you?”
I must close now. I intend visiting the Navy Yard, Mint, &c. before I write again. You must write often. You see I have nothing to write interesting to you, while you can write nothing that will not interest me. Don’t say my letters are not long enough. Tell Jim to write. Tell all the boys where I am, and to write. Jim Robinson,14 particularly. I wrote to him from N.Y. Tell me all that is going on in H—l.15
Truly your brother
Sam ]
. . . .
Philadelphia is rich in Revolutionary associations.16 I stepped into the State House yesterday to see the sights. In one of the halls, on a pedestal, is the old cracked “Independence Bell,” bearing the inscription “Proclaim [liberty ]throughout the land,” or something to that effect. It was cast 25 or 30 years before it made this proclamation. It was rung for the first time on “Independence Day,” when it “proclaimed liberty” by calling the people together to hear the Declaration of Independence read.17 It is an interesting relic. A small pine bench or pew in this Hall bears this inscription—“Washington, Franklin and Bishop White18 sat on this Bench.” Of course, I “sot down” on it. I would have whittled off a chip, if I had got half a chance. On the pedestal of the statue of Washington, in the same Hall, is a small block of granite, with the inscription—“A piece of the step on which the Secretary’s foot rested when he read the Declaration of Independence.” Full length portraits of William Penn and Lafayette hang in this Hall. There is another thing which should have a place in this Hall. It is a flag which I saw in New York. It was the personal property of Washington, and was planted on the Battery when the British evacuated New York. After that, it was not used until the laying of the corner stone of the Washington Monument. Then this faded and tattered, though time-honored relic of “the days that tried men’s souls,”19 was taken to Washington and unfurled to the breeze at that ceremony. It is said that when the procession reached the Monumental ground in Washington, the flag was unfurled and the announcement made—“This flag belonged to Washington; it proudly waved defiance to the British from the Battery when they evacuated New York; it is here now to display the stars and stripes under which its illustrious owner so nobly fought”—the multitude gazed on it for a moment, and then a shout went up that would have sent the blood from the cheek of a tyrant.
I came here from New York by way of the Camden and Amboy railroad—the same on which the collision occurred some time since. I never thought of this till our train stopped, “all of a sudden,” and then began to go backwards like blazes. Then ran back half a mile, and switched off on another track, and stopped; and the next moment a large passenger train came round a bend in the road, and whistled past us like lightning! Ugh! ejaculated I, as I [looked ]to see if Mr. [Clemens’s ]bones were all safe. If we had been three seconds later getting off that [track], the two locomotives would have come together, and we should no doubt have been helped off. The conductors silenced all questions by not answering them.20
S. C.
] [crosswise over the first paragraph:] [ Please send this to Henry if he is not in St. LouisSam]
Explanatory Notes | Textual Commentary
Source text(s):
From Philadelphia.
Tomb of Franklin—Planted Cannon—The
Exchange—Ride to Fairmount—Philadelphia
Marble—Fairmount Water Works—
RevolutionaryAssociations, &c. Extract from a
private letter to the senior editor, dated
Philadelphia, Oct. 26, 1853.
The Journal text itself consists of: ‘* * * * * The grave . . . Exchange.’ (20.16–22.19) followed with no break or sign of omission by the section for which the Journal is copy-text. Orion Clemens, being “the senior editor,” was probably the one primarily responsible for the editing of this letter as it was printed in the Journal. He may even have set the type for the letter himself. Collation of the MS and the Journal printing, presented below, shows the nature and extent of the changes Orion felt free to make when publishing his brother’s letter, and suggests the kinds of changes he probably imposed on the parts of this letter, as well as on other letters, for which MS does not survive. Besides correcting lapses, he altered sentence breaks, paragraphing, hyphenation of compound words, and other punctuation. He sometimes misread the MS, changed the language to suit his own taste, omitted words he may have found offensive, such as ‘infernal’ (21.8), and deleted personal remarks addressed to himself and discussion of the personal affairs of his brother or other members of the family.
Previous publication:
L1, 19–28; in addition to the copy-text, MTB, 1:99–100, excerpts from MS; MTL, 1:25–28, text of MS, with omissions; Lorch 1929,
410–13, text of Muscatine Journal.
Provenance:See McKinney Family Papers, pp. 459–61. About 1880, Orion Clemens numbered each page of the MS in ink for inclusion
in his autobiography. He also used a pencil to make eleven changes in the MS and to write ‘Transfer to
end’ in the upper left corner of the first MS page, with a line running to Clemens’s note
‘Please . . . Sam’ (24.9–11). Orion was evidently directing a transcriber
or compositor where to place Clemens’s note, which is written across the first paragraph of the letter. For several
reasons, it is probable that Orion marked the MS in pencil at the same time he added the ink page numbers, in 1880, not in 1853.
Orion’s marks in the MS do not correspond to the Journal text: most of the changes in the Journal text were not marked in the MS, and most of the changes marked in the MS were made in passages not
printed in the Journal. The Journal did not print the end of the letter or the
cross-written note Orion wanted placed there, nor did it include the passages in which Orion made seven of his eleven MS
changes. True, the Journal does incorporate the four changes Orion made in the part of the MS printed
there, but all are changes of the sort an editor would have to make to produce a corrected and grammatically conventional text:
three (21.10, 21.23, and 22.10) are necessary corrections of lapses in the MS, and one, the addition of a comma following
‘That is’ (20.31) where the MS all but calls out for a comma, is virtually a
correction as well. Finally, the entire texture of the two sets of changes—the ones made in the Journal text and those marked in the MS—is different. Orion edited the letter for the Journal with a free hand, shaping it to suit himself, but he marked the MS scarcely at all. Besides the added comma at
20.31, he made only one other change in the MS that is not a necessary correction: he replaced Clemens’s somewhat
idiosyncratic ‘of’ by more conventional ‘from’ at 19.20. In 1880 Clemens felt that
Orion had followed his advice to write the autobiography “in a plain, simple, truthful way, suppressing none of the
disagreeables” (9 June 80 to W. D. Howells, MH-H, in MTHL, 1:312); Orion’s light
editing of the MS of this letter for inclusion in the autobiography is evidently part of that simplicity. Interestingly enough,
where Clemens omitted a necessary verb at 22.10, Orion supplied ‘looks’ in the Journal text, but he penciled ‘is’, a less suitable choice, in the MS. This difference suggests that
Orion did not have a copy of the Journal text at hand when marking the MS for inclusion in his
autobiography. Orion sold his interest in the Muscatine Journal in June 1855; the publisher’s
file of the Journal is probably the one now in the Musser Public Library.
Emendations and textual notes:
[MS is copy-text for ‘Philadelphia . . . Sam’]
the three • theree [‘r’ over ‘e’]
b devil • [‘d’ over partly formed ‘b’ or ‘t’]
del deal • delal [‘a’ over ‘l’]
m Monday • [‘M’ over ‘m’]
hankerchief • [sic]
State. On • State.— |On
will (when • w‸hen‸ ill ‸(when‸ [‘hen’ over ‘ill’. Although ‘w‸hen‸ill’ was only marginally legible, Clemens let it stand and continued the sentence, perhaps until, the closing parenthesis following ‘Ky;’ (19.24) having made an opening parenthesis necessary, he rewrote ‘when’ as ‘(when’.]
and • and | andand • and |and (MS); and |and (MS—OC)
encouraging • encuouraging [‘o’ over ‘u’]
n “it’s • [quotation mark above possible partly formed ‘n’]
than • [sic] than (MS) • that n [‘t’ over ‘n’] (MS—OC)
th it • [‘it’ over ‘th’]
side walk • [possibly ‘sidewalk’] side walk (MS) • sidewalk, (J)
on in • o in [‘i’ over ‘o’]
we where • wehere [‘h’ over ‘e’]
parts. of • parts.of [deletion implied] parts. of • parts. of (MS); parts‸ of (J)
out-skirts • out-|skirtsout-skirts • out-|skirts (MS); outskirts (J)
is. We • is.— |Weis. We (J) • is.— |We (MS)
h large • [‘l’ over ‘h’]
p building • [‘b’ over ‘p’]
this these • thisese [‘e’ over ‘is’]
massy • [Clemens wiped something out before writing this word in the same space, but no trace of any prior inscription is legible; as many as three characters could have been written in the space, or Clemens may have wiped away something as meaningless as a blot of ink.] massy; (MS) • massy, (J)
building • biluilding [‘u’ over ‘il’]
lie like • lieke [‘k’ over ‘e’]
pe prepared • perepared [‘r’ over ‘e’]
you, know • [sic] (or . . . am) (MS) • [not in] (J)
n quite • [‘q’ over ‘n’]
every upward • [‘upwa’ over ‘every’]
◇ a well • [‘a’ over unrecovered wiped out character] well executed (MS) • well-executed (J)
water-|wheels • water-wheelswater-|wheels • water-wheels (MS); water wheels (J)
b Book • [‘B’ over ‘b’]
Wa Wissahickon • Waissahickon [‘i’ over ‘a’] Wissahickon (MS) • Wassahickon (J)
the her • ther [originally ‘the’ but ‘t’ never crossed; ‘t’ canceled; ‘r’ added]
situat‸ion‸ ed • [‘ion’ over ‘ed’]
distributin • [sic] (distributin) (MS) • (distributing) (J)
star stagger • stargger [‘g’ over ‘r’]
and • [sic] and and (MS) • and (MS—OC)
hands • [sic] hands (MS) • hands (MS—OC)
is • [sic]
re your • [‘yo’ over ‘re’]
bell,! • [exclamation point over comma]
[Muscatine Journal is copy-text for ‘Philadelphia . . . S. C.’]
liberty • libert[y]
looked • looked
Clemens’s • C——’s [As in 24 Aug 53 to JLC, Orion’s newspaper disguised the personal name.]
track • track Philadelphia . . . S. C. (J) • [not in] (MS)
[MS is copy-text for ‘Please . . . Sam’]
∎ Collation: This collation reports variants of four kinds: Samuel Clemens’s inscription in the MS (labeled MS); Orion Clemens’s changes in the MS (MS—OC); the readings of the Muscatine Journal (J); and the readings of this edition when they differ from all three texts.
Philadelphia, Pa. (MS) • Philadelphia, (J)
I[t] • I (MS); It (MS—OC)
of the (MS) • of ‸from‸ the (MS—OC)
and • and |and (MS); and |and (MS—OC)
the[y] • the (MS); they (MS—OC)
than (MS) • that n [‘t’ over ‘n’] (MS—OC)
My . . . home. [¶] The (MS) • [¶] * * * * * The (J)
Church-yard (MS) • Church yard (J)
cor. (MS) • corner (J)
cannons (6 pounders) (MS) • cannons, (6 pounders,) (J)
side walk (MS) • sidewalk, (J)
st. (MS) • street, (J)
ground, (MS) • ground,‸ (J)
water; they (MS) • water. They (J)
manner, (MS) • manner,‸ (J)
churches, (MS) • churches,‸ (J)
N.Y. (MS) • New York. (J)
That is (MS) • That is, (MS—OC); That is, (J)
parts. of • parts. of (MS); parts‸ of (J)
[no ¶] Well (MS) • [¶] Well (J)
heathen (MS) • heathens (J)
get towards (MS) • near (J)
out-skirts • out-|skirts (MS); outskirts (J)
always (MS) • always (J)
is. We (J) • is.— |We (MS)
beautiful (MS) • beautiful, (J)
base, (MS) • base‸ (J)
about . . . windows. (MS) • 25 or 30 feet high. (J)
and then the (MS) • with (J)
the other was (MS) • others are (J)
massy; (MS) • massy, (J)
imagination, (MS) • imagination‸ (J)
the infernal (MS) • [not in] (J)
[no ¶] Marble (MS) • [¶] Marble (J)
Phila. (MS) • Philadelphia. (J)
I[t] • I (MS); It (MS—OC); It (J)
dwellings) (MS) • dwellings,) (J)
stoop (MS) • stoops (J)
sun, (MS) • sun‸ (J)
Fairmount,—got • Fairmount, |—got (MS); Fairmount,‸got (J)
stage, (MS) • stage‸ (J)
hill, (MS) • hill‸ (J)
great (MS) • [not in] (J)
road, (MS) • road‸ (J)
(or . . . am) (MS) • [not in] (J)
dam, (MS) • dam‸ (J)
hold[s] • hold (MS); holds (MS—OC); holds (J)
entered—and (MS) • entered‸ and (J)
stands (MS) • stands, (J)
(is that proper?) (MS) • [not in] (J)
well executed (MS) • well-executed (J)
pump-house (MS) • pump-house, (J)
it) (MS) • it,) (J)
water-|wheels • water-wheels (MS); water wheels (J)
back-number (MS) • back number (J)
Works, (MS) • Works‸ (J)
give you. [no ¶] I (MS) • give. [¶] I (J)
steamboats (MS) • steam |boats (J)
Manayunk (MS) • Wamoyunk (J)
Geo. (MS) • George (J)
Wissahickon (MS) • Wassahickon (J)
in (MS) • to (J)
trip,—as (MS) • trip‸ as (J)
up—of (MS) • up, of (J)
rock, (MS) • rock; (J)
say (MS) • say, (J)
nice (MS) • [not in] (J)
[no ¶] Well (MS) • [¶] Well (J)
respectable-sized (MS) • respectably-sized (J)
[looks] • [not in] (MS); ‸is‸ (MS—OC); looks (J)
nothing (MS) • nothing (J)
either:—for (MS) • either‸—for (J)
5 or six (MS) • five or six (J)
(distributin) (MS) • (distributing) (J)
[no ¶] Passing (MS) • [¶] Passing (J)
“House of Refuge,” (MS) • ‸House of Refuge,‸ (J)
of which . . . at (MS) • which . . . about at (J)
School),—then (MS) • School;)‸‸then (J)
’bus, (MS) • ’bus‸ (J)
and (MS) • and (MS—OC)
hands (MS) • hands (MS—OC)
There . . . Sam (MS) • [not in] (J)
Philadelphia . . . S. C. (J) • [not in] (MS)
Please . . . Sam (MS) • [not in] (J)