17 or 18 June 1873 • Ostend, Belgium
(Transcript and paraphrase: Yates, 411, UCCL 11802)
A great likeness was said to exist between us. Mark Twain had written to Russell Young from Brussels, “They are selling portraits of Yates here at two francs apiece, [&] calling him the Shah. What does it mean?”1
Explanatory Notes | Textual Commentary
I next donned the Herald’s tabard on the 16th June, starting off
with Mr. Forbes to Brussels, to meet the Shah of Persia, who was
coming on a visit to England via Ostend. We
put up at the Hôtel de l’Europe, where we
found several of our journalistic confrères. On the 18th we were up at 3:30 a.m., and started at five
o’clock for Ostend in the special train provided for his
Persian majesty. Passage from Ostend to Dover was provided for the
newspaper correspondents in H. M. S. Lively,
where we were most graciously received and excellently entertained
at luncheon by the officers. A comic scene occurred just before
leaving Ostend. We were about to cast off from the pier, when
suddenly there appeared, bearing an odd-looking bag, and looking a
little seedy with early rising, a gentleman in whom we recognized
Mark Twain, but for whom the stolid sailor at the gangway had no
recognition. “I am coming on board,”
said Twain, persuasively. “No, you
ain’t,” said the stalwart A.
B.—“no tramps here.” “What’s that you
say?” asked Twain. “No tramps here,” repeated
the sailor. “Well, now,” said Twain,
in his softest and longest drawl, “you are quite right, I
am a ‘tramp,’—I am the
‘Tramp Abroad;’” and then we
welcomed him with a shout. . . . Days and nights were now devoted to the pursuit
of the Persian potentate, whom I followed everywhere, duly recording
his doings. (Yates 1885, 411) Yates’s report is mistaken in at least two of its details: by
Clemens’s own account, he did not go to Brussels, but only to
Ostend and back, on 17 and 18 June; and the reported allusion to A Tramp Abroad (1879) must have been a joking
reference to The Innocents Abroad (1869) (SLC 1873). Nasr-ed-Din
(1829–96), the shah of Persia since 1848, was the first
Persian monarch to undertake a state visit to Europe, during which he
conferred with the governments of Russia, Germany, Belgium, England,
France, Austria, Italy, and Turkey. In consequence he was responsible
for bringing European ideas to his country, and granted trade
concessions to Britain and Russia (Annual Cyclopaedia
1873, 637).
Source text(s):
Previous publication:
L5, 383#x2013;384.
Emendations and textual notes:
& • and