[We] hired a guide, took a carriage, crossed the neutral ground & drove around the seashore to Algeciras, where we arrived about three in the afternoon....

At five, the guide brought some immense, high-trotting horses, with furnished with unimaginable & indescribable saddles, & we mounted & left.... [We went] flying, un through Spain, unencumbered, over a faultless road....

We seldom galloped. We went in a swinging trot all night....

Just as it came ‸turned‸ broad daylight we came ‸ went ‸ ‸came‸ clattering up to a diligence station called Bekjes, or some such barbarous name. We lay down till We took breakfast, hired a couple of ‸covered‸ one-horse go-carts called caleches, and s drove off through An sunny Andalusia, among picturesque villages, scenes of rural beauty & mild mountainous grandeur, stopping now & then to look & admire, or halting a moment at a peasant’s house to eat pomegranates & gra luscious grapes. Away again, meeting quaintly-costumed Sancho Panzas riding sedate, contented little asses, & wondering where in why in the mischief the redoubtable Don Quixotte, did solemn & extravagant, did not emerge from the wayside trees or from some grim stone dungeon of a Spanish inn....

We reached the fine city of San Leandro, or San Lorenzo, or some such name, after a while, rather jaded & sleepy. The diligence was crowd ready to start, it was cr full, we were tired & jaded & sleepy, the weather was hot, it was sixteen awful hours to Granada & the Alhambra—we sighed, said it was too much, & gave sorrowfully gave it up.... The Alcazar was said to be a Moorish palace a thousand years old—it was the Alhambra in miniature—its rich architecture had been perfectly restored, its gardens l & fountains likewise;—enough—let argument cease—we would fly to Seville.

We took the cars at once.... At midnight we started from a doze & ... ‸in another moment‸ we were in charming Seville....

We took the cars & went to ancient Cordova.... We were lions in Cordova.—especially our lady with her short traveling dress. Those curious interior people seldom see foreigners I think. ‸no doubt.‸ Dressed in the quaint costumes of five hundred years ago, they flocked after us & gazed upon us as though somewhat as if we had dropped out of heaven, but more as if we had come up from the other place.... We staid all night at the funniest, ‸strangest‸ old-fashioned Spanish hotel....